Cells are created when you mix acrylic paint with additives and pour them onto a surface. The best additives include, pouring medium and silicone oil. There’s a lot of secrets to getting the right mix, but it isn’t as hard as you think! So let’s dive into how to create your dream cells in your artwork at home.
Firstly, why do cells form?
You are watching: How To Create Cells When Acrylic Pouring | Expert Tips and Tricks
There are a lot of reasons why cells occur in acrylic pouring. One main reason is that cells develop from mixing acrylic paint with additives. The additives have oil-like components which react with the water-base of acrylic paint. When the paint settles and bubbles rise to the surface and awesome cell patterns emerge.
A lot of people want to achieve the “best cells” and get very frustrated when they cannot create them.
Well…. let me tell you, you have come to the right place to learn!
Not only will I tell you about how to get the best cells, but also, how to stop them if you don’t want them sometimes.
Cells are really popular in paint pouring because they make a unique pattern which you can not get with many other art forms.
Today we will be discussing;
Cells are created by mixing acrylic paint with an additive like pouring medium (and optional silicone oil too) and pouring the mixture through a range of different techniques onto a surface.
Cells size, colour and shape will vary depending on the consistency and the density of the paint.
Every color (pigment) of your chosen acrylic paint will have different specific gravity. The higher their specific gravity, the lower the paint will sink in the mix. Which means that when you layer your paint on the canvas the thinnest paint will rise to the surface and the densest will drop to the bottom.
This is due to the ingredients separating from each other, the different colours overlap and reveal cells.
This action causes cells to occur.
If you wish to know more about the density of the paints, there are many YouTube videos which give more information. There are also brands such as Golden, which is known for labelling each and every paint color with the specific density on the labels. This makes them a popular choice of acrylic paints among artists.
However, for the purpose of beginning acrylic pouring, the act of trial and error is a very effective way to learn about colour densities. For example, a painting with deep purple, dark blue and black will rise to the surface more than its white (denser) counterpart. In your learning you will quickly realise to use more white in the mix, so that it lifts the overall color of the piece.
One way you could try and check density is by weighing each of your acrylic paint colours, by using a kitchen scale before layering them in your cup.
You will get lots of big cells by adding both pouring medium and silicone oil to your acrylic paint mix. When you pour this mixture onto a surface the cells will very quickly reveal themselves.
However, it is a common misconception that you need both silicone oil and pouring medium to create any cells.
You do not need both. You can still create many cells without needing silicone oil at all! Pouring medium alone is very effective. Silicone oil creates larger cells, whereas pouring medium creates lots of little cells.
Another way to achieve cells is by pouring a line of paint, and blowing it with air. When the paint moves from being blown, the two layers collide creating all new cell patterns as seen below.
Here is a recipe, but remember recipes aren’t always accurate because every paint differs in density. In one standard (large) cup, add approximately half paint, to half pouring medium, plus a dash of water, plus a few drops of silicone.
Another recipe which works well is a ratio of 1/2 a cup of paint to 1 cup of pouring medium. Plus a dash of water and drops of silicone oil. Mix very well.
Remember silicone oil is optional!
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The cells in the above painting were achieved with no silicone oil. Just floetrol (pouring medium).
There are many reasons that artists do or don’t want cells included in their work. It is known as more of a love-hate relationship because they bring amazing color and variable combinations, but can cause unwanted distractions too.
Their beauty is in their randomness. It is the spontaneous nature of cells that artists get addicted to.
The fluids interact in unknown ways and youdo not know how a piece will look until they hit the canvas. The outcome is very uncertain and cells results are one of the joys of acrylic pouring.
There are ways that you can make cells where you want them to appear, but in most cases, it is just luck.
Above all, cells are the most popular because they captivate and amaze audiences. People are enticed by the intricacies and the random nature of the cells and how they appear.
I am sure that once you have mastered this technique it will probably become one of your favorites too all while impressing others with it!
Using silicone as an additive is a much-debated topic in acrylic pouring. Many artists avoid it as it can reduce the archival quality or the lifespan of the artwork. It can also have a yellowing effect on the paint itself and can degrade the artwork over time.
This doesn’t really bother me, I have used it many times, years ago and the artworks still look great today. But this might bother other professionals.
It is also a strong chemical, if you are highly sensitive to chemicals then again it is probably not for you, but this will depend on the specific brand that you use. You can always opt to use protective gear like a mask when using it too.
There are many alternative options to silicone oils. You can use a Bunsen burner or professional kitchen torch instead.
The reason that torching your acrylic pours is preferable is that it can remove and pop bubbles on the surface of your artwork. By popping the bubbles, it will prevent holes and defects from appearing in the finished piece. It is also a more controlled application of cells, you can choose where you want to put them!
Make sure you are careful when using a butane torch and do not leave the flame unattended. Also, keep it away from flammable substances and work in a well-ventilated area! Read the instructions and follow them carefully.
To use this method, lightly wave the torch over your finished canvas once you have applied the paint mix. This should be done approximately 5 to 6 inches above the canvas.
Do not hold it over one area for too long, as this can lead to yellowing, dimples in the paint, or even damage and burn your paint and artwork.
A gas-powered torch that you can direct on your canvas is the preferable method. The small butane kitchen torches are perfect for this!
If you want lots of smaller cells then this method will also work in your favor. But if you want fewer, larger cells, then this is not the approach for you and silicone may be better.
There are many factors that influence the creation of cells, and that is what we are going to be continuing to look at below. If you want to experiment with acrylic pouring and demonstrate all of the patterns that you are capable of making, then remember that this is just one of them.
Using different pouring mediums can have a great effect on the creation of cells in your work. The main considerations for mediums in cell creation are their density and chemical properties.
A few common mediums are listed below for you defining their qualities and how they can possibly affect cells in your fluid painting. There is also one alcohol additivethat has been praised by artists when they are looking to create eye-catching cells in their own pouring paint.
There are many ways to create cells when acrylic pouring. Each and every product with each technique is slightly different in its makeup which is why there is not one best method that will work for everyone, there is a range of ways to create in acrylic pouring!
Generally speaking, there is no perfect method for creating cells. This would all depend on your individual taste and how you want the cells to look in the finished product.
The techniques which seem to create the most cells are the Swipe Method, Flip Cup Technique and any techniques where the paint gets blown (like the dutch pour).
It is important to note that I have tried the Swipe Method without silicone and it didn’t work. Silicone oil is a must for this technique.
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You can test the methods I have described to see how they work on your canvas and from here decide what is best for you.
I can however say that my favorite methods for creating cells so far is the flip cup, wave technique (blowing waves) and dutch pour (blowing the paint with a hair dryer).
Silicone oil can be found in many different products and is pretty easy to source. Often people use WD-40 spray lubricant from the hardware store, which has a very high concentration of silicone. I don’t like using this personally though. I much prefer actual silicone oil art brands. Using WD-40 is an aerosol and it gave me headaches when I tried it!
WD-40 is definitely an easy to source entry-level option for anyone who is just starting out on their acrylic pouring journey and wants to experiment with cells in their artwork. I recommend using art branded silicone oil though. I use also found this one available on Amazon.
This method of achieving cells is also debated as something that will actually diminish the longevity of your work. If you want to keep your art for a long time then silicone oil may not be the best option for you.
Other types of silicone oil that you can use include hair oils. These vary greatly in their make up which is why before purchasing you should look at the ingredients list, Dimethicone should be pretty close to the top! This is the type of silicone that is used in a hair oil.
To get the best effect you will usually want to add 2-3 drops of the silicone oil or silicone-based product to your paint when you are mixing in the pouring medium to start creating cells.
This can vary, depending on the brand of paint that you are using, the consistency of the medium, and a range of other factors that will affect the finished product. The right mix will come down to experimentation to find what works best for you.
A good starting point is to add acrylic paint, and your chosen pouring medium in a ratio of 1:1.5 with 2-3 drops of silicone oil. Only place the silicone oil in the colors where you want your cells to appear.
Experiment with the different mixes side by side to see how the results vary. If you want bigger cells in your work then do not stir the acrylic paint once you have added the silicone oil. This will make it split off into smaller cells on your canvas.
Sometimes you may not want to create cells in an artwork, but still want to create a flowing acrylic look. If you just use your pouring medium and use a technique such as ring pour, you will end up with much less cells.
If you don’t want cells, make sure you don’t add any other additives or use cell creating techniques. For example if you blow air on the paint, use a blow torch or add silicone oil the cells will be strengthened.
Another option is PVA glue, it barely creates any cells at all!
There are many factors at play when we create cells in our acrylic paint pouring. They tend to form most prominently when there is a significant difference in density between the paint colors.
There are several tried and tested methods of achieving cells in your acrylic pour, but the number of cells that you get and the size of the cells are determined by that all-important difference in density of the colors.
Some paints are denser than others, and it will take a little experimenting with different brands and different consistencies in order to see what gives the effect that you are searching for in your painting.
The main methods at play when we are trying to achieve cells in acrylic pouring are by varying the density of the paint, blowing the paint, adding a silicone oil, or use of the torch method.
We have talked about density, but adding silicone will stop the colors from mixing and separate, forming cells. The heat from a professional kitchen torch will do the same.
When using a torch it is important to note that you do not want to hold it to the artwork for too long as it may cause irreparable damage. You may also use a hot-air dryer as a substitute too.
You do not always need to add silicone oil to your paint in order to get beautiful cells in your artwork, this is just one method. The reason it is so popular is that it is cheap and effective. For beginners, it is also the easiest method to use.
The same effect can sometimes be replicated with no silicone additive by using Floetrol or another type of pouring medium. The best pouring mediums are designed to give the best consistency so they do not often create separate layers to produce cells.
As mentioned above, varying density in the paints that you are using and applying heat may also give you cells in your work.
Remember you can continue your learning here with my FREE 5 step online course.
Happy pouring!
Source: https://gardencourte.com
Categories: Recipe
This post was last modified on 28/10/2023 06:25
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