How to Make Cushion Covers for Outdoor Furniture
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Have you invested money in nice porch or deck furniture only to realize a season or more later the cushion fabric is filthy, faded, or you just don’t like it anymore?
You are watching: How to Make Cushion Covers for Outdoor Furniture
Maybe you’ve been looking for a used set of outdoor furniture but you don’t like the cushion fabric or it’s very worn and needs to be replaced.
Well, don’t worry, because cushions on outdoor furniture is one of those projects you can DIY if you know how to use a sewing machine.
To make your own cushion covers you need the following knowledge and skills:
The actual supplies may vary depending on the finished look you’re trying to achieve.
The following list will give you a good idea of what you’ll need to make your own cushion covers.
Note: You may be able to salvage some of the supplies from your existing cushions.
*Check out Essential Sewing Tools, if you need more information on these sewing tools.
This post describes in detail all of the steps you need to make new covers for your outdoor furniture.
The video below includes demonstrations of many of the steps but not all of them.
See the time marks below the video for specific steps.
The video demonstrations end after the welting demonstration.
Good news! This blog post contains all of the information shared in the above video as well as all the steps not shown.
So, keep reading!
Take pictures of the cushions from all angles before removing the covers. You’ll be able to use them as a reference when you sew the new cushions.
After taking pictures of the cushions, you need to figure out how much fabric to buy for your new cushion covers.
To do this you’ll need to measure and record the dimensions of the old cushion covers.
Take a close look at how the current cushion covers were constructed.
You want to locate each of the fabric pieces that were used to construct the cover.
Use a tape measure to get the dimensions each of those pieces that make up the cover(s) you’re going to replace. (See a demonstration at 3 minutes 4 seconds in the video above.)
Tip: Think in terms of rectangles and squares, not the actual shape of the cushion cover.
The measurements you take on the old cushion cover(s) don’t need to be exact. In fact, it’s better to be a little generous on the numbers.
Sketch out a diagram and label with the measurements. The photo below will give you an idea of what this could look like.
Add 2 inches to each side for seam allowance and a little extra for “just in case”.
The welting is attached along seams and provides a more finished look.
The fabric selected to cover the cord can contrast or coordinate with the main fabric.
It seems the terms cording, piping, and welting are often used interchangeably.
Through research for this project, I’ve drawn the following conclusions:
Regardless of whether you call it cording, piping, or welting, do you want it on your new cushion covers?
If so, measure the length of the existing welting.
If there isn’t any, measure the length/perimeter of all the places you want to put it.
These measurements will be used so you know how much cording you will need to have as well as plan for the fabric you’ll need to cover it.
With the measurements you took on the old cushion covers, you’ll be able to determine how much fabric you need to buy.
Do this by creating a sketch on how to layout the pieces.
Unless you already know the width of the fabric, draw two plans:
(Most outdoor fabrics come in widths around these two measurements. )
ONE WAY to sketch how you’ll layout the pattern pieces is to draw a long rectangle(s) on paper OR use a sheet(s) from a notepad that will be the length of fabric.
Label one as 52″-54″ wide and the other 60″ wide.
Work with one long rectangle at a time.
Using the measurements you recorded earlier for each fabric piece, draw smaller rectangles inside the larger rectangle, arranging them to fit with as little fabric waste as possible.
As you draw out a plan for laying out the pieces on the fabric, keep in mind whether or not you’ll be looking for a fabric with a print that would have a specific direction to it.
Note: The drawing doesn’t need to be to scale or exact. But you do need to mark the measurements of each piece. This will allow you to double-check your math.
You’ll also be able to use these sketches when it’s time to lay out the pattern pieces and cut the fabric.
A SECOND METHOD to figure out a layout is to use graph paper. Draw each part of the cushion cover on the graph paper and label it with the measurements.
Then, cut out the pieces and lay them out on another piece of graph paper that represents the fabric.
This method will more to scale. In the image below, each square unit is equal to 2″.
Consider if you want the welting to be the same fabric as the cushions or a different one that provides a contrast.
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If it will be the same as the cushion fabric, you’ll need to include it in your larger rectangle sketches.
If it’s going to be on a different fabric, draw another rectangle to figure out how much you will need.
To determine how much fabric you will need to cover the cord for the welting:
The fabric for the welting works best if it is cut on the bias. Keep this in mind when drawing your diagram.
Think about where you’re going to put the outdoor furniture.
Answering these questions beforehand will help you shop for fabric that will meet your needs.
Consider such things like:
Check out this video by Fabric.com to get some information on the different types of outdoor fabric to determine what will best fit your needs.
Sailrite and Fabric Wholesale Direct are good places to begin your search for the outdoor fabric for your cushion covers.
Both places have thousands of fabric choices and multiple ways to filter your search.
In addition, both sites have resources for building your knowledge base on working with outdoor fabric.
Note: The two fabrics I used came from Fabric.com which is no longer in business.
Will you put a zipper in your new cushion cover?
Adding a zipper is a little more involved but will allow you to take off the cushion cover to clean it.
Sailrite has multiple videos on how to add zippers.
Start with the one about Zipper Plaques for Cushions. This is the most popular method in sewing a zipper in a cushion.
If you don’t see yourself doing that, and are going to either cover the cushions when you aren’t using them or store them in a protected area, sewing them closed may be the way you want to go.
That way you can just spot clean them when necessary.
This may be decided for you depending on the cleaning recommendation of the fabric you purchase.
Do the current cushion covers have welting?
If so, consider reusing the cord by cutting it out of the old cover after taking pictures and getting the measurements.
If you need to buy new cording, check out this quick lesson by Sailrite on the different types.
Some cushions are filled with poly-fil. This loose stuffing might be stuffed directly in the cover or enclosed in a pillow form inside cushion cover.
If the cushion has a definite shape to it, there may be a foam block on the inside of the cushion cover possibly covered in batting to soften the shape.
Until you open up the cushions, it won’t be clear if you’ll be able to reuse the existing foam and/or stuffing inside them.
Look for signs of the foam, batting, and poly-fil disintegrating or breaking down and evidence of mildew or mold.
If batting was wrapped around a piece of foam, an adhesive spray or glue may have been applied to hold it in place. That could disintegrate over time, too.
The final decision is up to you on whether or not to reuse the foam, batting, and/or poly-fil.
If any of these fillers need to be replaced, Sailrite has a helpful flowchart to guide you in the right direction.
In addition, Sailrite has multiple articles to help you to select the right kind of fabric and supplies for your DIY cushion covers.
Make sure you have the thread and sewing machine needles for the fabric.
If at all possible, you want to use a seam ripper to take apart the existing cushion cover.
These individual pieces can be used as pattern pieces for your new covers.
Document the deconstruction by taking pictures as you pull each piece part or by sketching a diagram.
This will be REALLY helpful when you start constructing your new cushion covers.
There are two ways you can use the old cushion cover pieces:
Regardless of which method you use, when you pull apart the cushion covers make sure to keep the seam allowances. That way, you’ll know exactly what to trace.
If you make your own pattern pieces, label each piece with the cushion part, how many you need of it, the seam allowance that was used, the grain of the fabric, and transfer any darts, pleats or other folds to the pattern.
If you use the old fabric as the pattern pieces themselves, you’ll be able to see the seam allowance size and where any darts or pleats were used. Also, you’ll be able to determine the grain of the fabric.
However, you may want to pin a label on each piece so you know what it is.
Check the fabric manufacturer’s recommendations for cleaning.
If you never plan on tossing the cushion covers in the washing machine and dryer, you can probably skip prewashing the fabric.
However, if there is a chance you will wash and dry them, make sure to prewash the fabric.
It would be horrible if the cushion covers shrank after you made them and no longer fit!
Note: You will use the zipper foot to make the welting.
If you have salvaged the cording from the old cushion covers, you have the exact lengths you need.
If you’re using brand new cording, there are 2 options:
If you do option 2, you can cut the welting to the exact measurement when you sew it on the pillow cover.
Step 1: Cut the bias strips out of the fabric that will cover the cording.
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The width of the bias strips should be the circumference of the cording plus 1-inch. Cut the short ends of the strips at 45 degree angle for seaming.
Sew the strips together with a regular presser foot. Tip: Make one long strip.
If the fiber content of your outdoor fabric allows, press the seams open. If not, you can finger press.
Step 2: Enclose the cording with the fabric strip.
Make sure the fabric is square before laying out the pattern pieces. By doing this you will ensure your finished cushion covers won’t have any ripples.
Follow the diagram you made in the beginning, to lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric.
If you need 2 of a pattern piece, consider folding the fabric in half and cut them both at the same time if it works with the layout diagram you made.
Side Note: Learn how I made my pattern weights. 😊
Cut the pieces out carefully and transfer any marks to the fabric.
The following directions and photos are specific to the back and boxed cushion covers I made.
You may not need to complete all of the steps.
Alternatively, you may need to add some steps.
It really depends on what features your finished cushion covers will have.
The idea behind providing these directions is to give you a general idea of the order in which you may need to construct your pillow covers.
Seam allowance: Use the same one that was used on the original cushion covers.
STEP 1: Use the marks to pin and sew any darts, pleats, or other tucks that will provide shape to the cushion cover.
See a how I do this in the very first video on this post:
STEP 2: With the welting on the right side of the fabric, line up the raw edges of the welting to the raw edges of either the front or back cushion piece.
(The cording should be inside the edge of the cushion cover.)
Pin or clip in place if it moves around.
Sew in place with the zipper foot and a medium stitch length.
STEP 3: Lay the other cushion piece on top of the one that has the welting sewn to it. Right sides together.
Clip or pin it in place.
Sew both pieces together with the zipper foot and a medium stitch length.
STEP 4: Add the opening to the bottom of the cushion.
I decided not to use a zipper. Instead, I hand sewed the opening closed with a blind stitch. The cushion is very full and I wanted the edges of the opening to overlap about 1/2 an inch.
To prepare the pieces that are the opening in place of the zipper.
STEP 5: Turn the cover right side out.
STEP 6: Fill the cover with the poly-fil.
STEP 7: Hand stitch to close the opening.
STEP 1: Attach the welting to both the top and bottom of the cushion cover.
The welting should be on the right side of the fabric.
The raw edges of the welting should be lined up to the raw edges of the cushion piece.
(The cording should be inside the edge of the cushion cover.)
Pinning or clipping the welting is optional because you’ll be matching up the ends.
Sew the welting in place with the zipper foot and a medium stitch length.
STEP 2: Prepare the pieces that will go around the boxed cushion by sewing them together. When you’re done it should be a closed piece.
I decided not to use a zipper. Instead, I hand sewed the opening closed with a blind stitch. The foam is covered in batting and very thick. I wanted the edges of the opening to overlap about 1/2 an inch.
To prepare the pieces that are the opening in place of the zipper.
STEP 3: With right sides together, pin/clip the raw edge of the top piece to one of the edges of the side piece that was prepared in STEP 2.
Sew together with the zipper foot and a medium stitch. Clip the corners before sewing around them.
STEP 4: With right sides together, pin/clip the raw edge of the bottom piece to the other raw edge of the side piece.
Sew together with the zipper foot and a medium stitch.
Clip the corners before sewing around them.
STEP 5: Turn the cover right side out.
STEP 6: Insert the foam cushion into the cover.
STEP 7: Hand stitch to close the opening.
Now it’s time to go put your newly covered cushions on the furniture frame and enjoy the feeling of a wildly successful sewing experience!
Looking for more sewing projects? Here are a few other posts you may like:
Source: https://gardencourte.com
Categories: Outdoor
This post was last modified on 26/10/2023 15:50
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