Turn an Outdoor Cat into an Indoor Cat

Making the transition from outdoor life to indoor life is a process, but it’s not as difficult as you might think. It just takes some planning so you can help the cat to not feel overwhelmed by all the changes taking place.

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What if the Cat Has Never Been Indoors?

First on the list is to take the cat to the veterinarian for a thorough exam. Being outside, there’s also an excellent chance the cat will need flea/tick preventative treatment as well. The only newcomer you want to bring into the house is the cat, and not an army of fleas of ticks.

While you’re at the veterinarian, have the cat microchipped. That way, if kitty escapes out the door you’ll stand a much better chance of getting her back if found by someone else.

If you’re bringing in a stray cat or if you’ve decided your exclusively-outdoor cat should now live indoors, you can’t just bring her in and have the run of the house right away. The cat will need to get her bearings and you may need to do a little training before she goes exploring in the every room. Even though you may think after having access to the whole outdoors the cat should handle your 1800 sq. ft. house without a hitch, it won’t necessarily be a seamless transition. First of all, in the great outdoors, the cat could pee and poop wherever she pleased. I don’t think you’ll want that to be the case in your house. So confining her to one area while she adjusts to the litter box will be an important step.

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In the outdoor environment, the cat also had hiding places, favorite perches ,and other preferred core locations. The indoor environment will be totally unfamiliar and it can be overwhelming if you offer too much too soon.

If you’re bringing in a stray or a cat who hasn’t had much contact with you, setting up a sanctuary room will help the transition from being too overwhelming. How long the cat will need to be in the sanctuary room depends on your specific situation.

The Cat’s Sanctuary Room

I’ve talked and written so much about how to set up a sanctuary room, especially as it applies to introducing a second cat to a resident cat. For a cat who has never set foot inside your home, setting up a sanctuary room will also be needed to help speed up the acclimation process.

The sanctuary room is just a room you can close off – such as a bedroom. This is where all of kitty’s necessities will be located – food and water bowls, litter box, scratching post, and toys. There are also some extras to put in there as well that will be very helpful: hideaways and a cat tree or some kind of perch.

Lighting is important in the sanctuary room. If the cat is frightened, avoid having bright light in the room. The cat will feel less anxious if lighting is low. Instead of a bright overhead light, use a table lamp or put the overhead light on a dimmer switch. You can also plug night lights in so you can see when you go in there without having to switch on a bright light.

Hideaways for the Cat

The first thing the former outdoor cat may do when inside is to immediately seek out a hiding place. This is important because when feeling securely hidden, the cat can use that hiding place as a home base as she begins to get to know the environment. The hideaways can be as simple as open paper bags placed on their sides, boxes on their sides, boxes turned upside down with an entrance hole cut in one side, soft-sided pet tunnels, etc. The more hideaways you spread around the room, the less likely the cat will camp out under the bed.

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Litter Box

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If the cat has never used a litter box then you have to make the set-up as easy to figure out as possible. Use a large-sized open litter box and fill it with unscented, soft litter. Initially, the box, although large in size, shouldn’t necessarily be too high. The litter substrate should resemble what the cat would use outdoors (such as sand or dirt), so soft, unscented litter typically works best. This isn’t the time to experiment with alternative litters or a high-tech self-cleaning litter box. Make the set-up appealing and obvious – almost as if there’s a big sign above it saying “restroom”. Don’t use a covered box and don’t place the box in the closet. Keep everything convenient.

Scratching Post

A stray cat or one who was exclusively outdoors will have claws that have never been trimmed. This is a cat who is used to being able to scratch on anything so make sure there’s a good, sturdy scratching post available. Sisal-covered ones are usually the most popular with cats but if your cat doesn’t like it, try bringing in an actual log initially.

Some cats like to scratch vertically and some prefer horizontal scratching. Some cats enjoy both. Offer a tall, sturdy vertical post and also a horizontal scratch pad. Corrugated cardboard scratch pads are easily found in your local pet product store and online.

Cat Tree or Perch

Being able to climb up to a safe elevated perch was a crucial part of outdoor life for the cat. It provided safety and it also allowed the cat the ability to see what was going on in the environment. Provide a sturdy cat tree. A cat tree may seem like a big expense but it’s a very important piece of feline real estate. It provides so much comfort and security as well as being a great place to climb, jump, play, and nap. Multi-perched trees also allow more than one cat to share a relatively close space while still maintaining some kind of status.

a cat tree is also valuable because it gives the cat some ownership. The tree becomes something that’s just for her. The tree, as opposed to other furniture in your home, will only contain the cat’s scent.

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Cat trees come in all shapes, sizes, and prices. What I did when I brought two feral cats in many years ago was to attach some silk tree branches around the cat tree to give the cats more cover. They felt a little more concealed when up on the tree and I believe that accelerated our trust-building process. If you’re dealing with a very scared cat, consider doing some camouflage as well. You can also find a tree that already has a more life-like look with artificial branches.

Place the cat tree near a window so the cat can enjoy napping in the sun and also look out at the birds and other wildlife.

Trust-Building

Don’t be in a rush to bond with the cat. Let the cat set the pace. She needs to feel secure and then the bond of trust will start to grow. Use interactive playtime as a way to engage in fun activities while still allowing the cat to stay within her comfort zone. The fishing pole-type design of the toy keeps you just far enough away that she can focus a little more on playing and less on you. That’s actually what you want because if the cat feels she can relax around you and not have to keep eyes on you at all times, it will help her see you aren’t a threat. Properly done interactive play sessions can go a long way in helping the cat make a positive association with your presence.

If the cat is very frightened or shows signs of aggression when you try to interact, try using clicker training. This is a great way to reward the cat for the smallest of steps in the right direction. Clicker training lets the cat set the pace so it reduces stress. Clicker training is a wonderful way to work on building trust and confidence.

Pheromone therapy may be helpful as well. Use a plug-in synthetic pheromone to help the cat feel more comfortable and identify the new territory as familiar.

Catnip can also help the cat start to make positive associations with the new environment. Rub a little catnip on a toy or put some loose catnip in a sock for her to enjoy. Not every cat reacts to catnip so if you find she doesn’t respond, try silver vine instead.

Solo Toys and Activities for the Cat

Leave some interesting solo toys out for the cat to discover. The more you show the indoor world has all the stimulation and fun needed, the easier it’ll be to do the indoor transition. Introduce puzzle feeders as well. These are great ways to give the cat the opportunity to “work” for food. It’s a special form of playtime that ends with food rewards. Puzzle feeders can also distract the cat with positive activity which can help reduce stress. You can purchase puzzle feeders at your local pet product store or online. You can find puzzle feeders for dry or wet food. You can even make homemade puzzle feeders. Something as simple as cutting holes in a plastic water bottle and tossing treats in there can be the start of a basic puzzle feeder.

There Might be a Few Bumps in the Process

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Depending on the individual cat, the change to indoor life may come with a bit of stress. Even though you know you’re providing a safe and wonderful environment, the cat may not see it that way at first. That’s where incorporating puzzle feeders, hiding places, playtime, and other aspects of enrichment to make the indoors as interesting as the outdoors, will be essential.

Cat Proofing

Now that your cat is indoors there are some dangers around you may not have paid attention to previously. Go around your home and check for potential risks and make necessary changes. Make sure all window screens are secure, put plants out of reach (almost all plants are poisonous to cats), keep cleaners and chemicals stored away, put the trash can under the sink, or use one that has a locking lid.

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Since you aren’t familiar with the cat’s habits yet, when it comes time to come out of the sanctuary room, you’ll have to pay attention to whether she tends to want to steal food off the counters or chew on things she shouldn’t. Watch carefully because you may have to do some training to keep her off the counter. In the meantime, make sure food isn’t left out.

Watch for behaviors such as chewing electrical cords or trying to play with dangling cords. You may need to secure dangling wires, use cord containment devices or coat exposed cords with a bitter anti-chew product.

Watch for Cat Escapes

When it comes time to open the sanctuary room door, you’ll then have to deal with the risk the cat may try to bolt out the front door when there’s an opportunity. Everyone in the family must be on the same page in terms of training and making sure the cat’s whereabouts are known before anyone opens a door. You may need to establish a plan to prevent door darting. Offer the cat a puzzle feeder or toss treats away from the door as you’re leaving. Be aware of door darting when you return back home as well.

Creating a Safe “Outdoor” Experience for Your Cat

If you want to still allow your cat to have some exposure to the outdoors, consider doing it in a very safe way by creating or purchasing a sturdy outdoor enclosure, commonly referred to as a catio. You can find all types of enclosures from small ones to elaborate designs. You may also decide to walk your cat outdoors on a leash and harness (not every cat is a good candidate for that though).

Environmental Enrichment

To keep your cat convinced that being indoors is a good thing, increase environmental enrichment. Place little toys around the house for discovery, toss puzzle feeders around, maintain a schedule of interactive playtime, have multiple options for vertical territory, and comfortable hiding places. Be creative in ways to increase the fun factor. Grow some kitty greens for your cat so she can munch on safe greens the way she might have done outdoors. It’s common for cats to nibble on grass. Oh, and don’t forget the catnip!

When the cat was outdoors, climbing, jumping, and being on elevated areas were an important part of daily life. Provide those opportunities by having a sturdy cat tree. Window perches are also a great addition, and you can even expand vertical options in the form of cat shelves and walkways. You can be as elaborate or basic as you’d like as long as the vertical territory you create is comfortable, safe, and in a location the cat will enjoy.

Be consistent in the playtime schedule and enrichment for your cat. This isn’t something to do just for the first few days or weeks as your cat adjusts. Environmental enrichment should be a part of your cat’s daily life from now on.

Cat Training

Once the trust-building process is well underway and the cat is starting to explore the house, begin a training program. Be consistent and train with love and kindness. Your cat is learning a whole new way of living so be a patient teacher. Pay attention to what the cat needs so you can provide those things in a way that works for both of you.

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Need More Information?

For more information on cat behavior and training, refer to the best-selling books by Pam Johnson-Bennett. Pam’s books are available at bookstores and online. We’ve included Amazon associate links here on our website.

If you have a question about your cat’s behavior or health, contact your veterinarian. This article is not intended as a medical diagnosis nor is it a replacement for your cat’s regular veterinary care. This article is for general information purposes only.

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Categories: Outdoor