If you’ve ever had a mouse infestation, you might feel like you’ve tried everything to repel them but to no avail. Unfortunately, Irish Spring soap isn’t the solution and neither is keeping the lights on throughout the day (two common myths!). Even home remedies like peppermint oil and other strong aromas can’t stop their invasion. In fact, “mice are very curious and very food-motivated,” says Dion Lerman, the Environmental Health Programs Specialist for the Pennsylvania Integrated Pest Management Program. “They are not easily driven off.”
To help you out, we’ve prepared this expert-approved guide below on how to get rid of mice naturally and permanently. “Living with mice isn’t just unsettling, it can make your home less healthy,” says Dan DiClerico, Good Housekeeping Institute’s Home Improvement & Outdoor Director. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), mice can directly and indirectly spread diseases to humans through urine, feces, saliva and ticks. Plus, it doesn’t help that they hide in the walls or in places you rarely visit, such as the attic.
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Luckily, if your at-home solutions aren’t working and you’re not ready to call pest control just yet, the tips below will be useful. We even share how to spot and prevent future mice infestations (and yes, having a new furry friend, like a cat, is one of them!).
Where there’s one mouse, more are usually lurking. “Mice are nocturnal by nature and very wary; they often wait until there is no noise in the household before they start to forage,” says Lerman. He notes that peak activity is usually 2 to 4 a.m., but if the area is populated with food and if there are no threats around, they may relax and feed anytime. “But, in general, seeing a mouse in daylight indicates a very high mouse population that is too big and hungry to wait until dark to feed,” he notes.
The Building Performance Institute, which sets standards for creating healthy, pest-free homes, notes that a single female mouse can have up to eight litters per year, producing as many as 100 young mice! “Droppings are usually the first sign of an infestation,” says DiClerico. The droppings look like dark grains of rice, about a quarter-inch long. Rat droppings tend to be wider and longer — about half an inch in length.
Mice leave their mark in other ways, too. They’re always foraging for food, so the kitchen tends to be the hottest spot. Scan your pantry and cabinets for debris on shelves or gnaw marks on food boxes. Look for gaps and cracks in walls, along baseboards and windows, and around pipes, wires and drains. “Mice can get through holes as small as a quarter-inch in diameter, which is about the size of a pencil,” says DiClerico.
“There is no fast, easy or guaranteed way to get rid of mice,” Lerman says. “It’s a process.” Just like getting rid of silverfish and other pests in your home, like cockroaches, it’s best to keep mice away in the first place. Yet even with every precaution in place, mice may slip through the cracks (quite literally!). Once you pick up on signs that you have unwelcome guests in your home, follow this step-by-step guide to remove mice as quickly — and painlessly — as possible.
⚠️ ” Zinc phosphide releases an extremely poisonous gas and should NEVER be used in residences,” Lerman says. “Trained and licensed pest control professionals may use it for outdoor control of rodent burrows, but it MUST (by law) be no closer to an occupied structure (home) than 15 feet.”
Before mice can nest in your home, they need to find a way inside. Basements, attics, crawlspaces and cracks around windows and doors are all possible entry points. “Figure out where they’re coming from because putting traps randomly all over your basement floor isn’t going to do you any good,” says Cindy Mannes, a spokesperson for the National Pest Management Association. Do your best detective work to determine where the mice live and build nests, and then set your traps around those general areas.
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Mouse traps are one of the most effective ways to get rid of mice that have taken up residence inside your home. Place mouse traps in the more vulnerable areas of your house, like along walls and behind trash cans. There are various mouse traps to choose from, ranging in cost, function and design.
⚠️ Due to the inhumane killing method of live catch, sticky or glue mouse traps, we do not recommend them. Similarly, we do not recommend rodenticides, which should never be used in homes because of the risk of accidental poisoning, especially of children.
Choose from the following best types of mouse traps:
All mouse traps require bait of some kind — peanut butter is by far the most commonly used bait, but you can also use chocolate, cheese, bird seed or nuts to lure mice into the trap.
Mice like cars just as much as houses. “If they get into the garage, they might just decide to live under your car hood, where the engine is nice and warm,” warns Mannes. Once they start chewing on wires, they can seriously damage your car. Wrapping problem areas in rodent tape (which is treated with components also found in chili peppers) can help prevent mice from returning.
While setting a few mouse traps in your garage to rule out any unwanted pests is great, preventing them from entering your space is even better. “It’s important to seal off the garage. Weather stripping under the garage door helps keep the pests out,” says DiClerico. Most importantly, you should keep any food that would attract pests out of reach. “Never store trash, pet food or any other items that attract mice in your garage,” says DiClerico.
Everyone has their own threshold for what they can put up with until they ask for help. If you get to the point of needing a professional, ask your friends and neighbors if they have any recommendations, whether you’re looking for someone who can aggressively and effectively get the job done or an exterminator who will offer up a more humane approach. Expect to spend between $150 and $250 for treatment, depending on the size of your home and the extent of the outbreak.
⚠️ We do not recommend bombs or foggers of any kind, since they are hazardous to people and often not very effective. “Their only outcome is leaving toxic residue on every surface of the home,” Lerman says.
And always check an exterminator’s credentials before hiring. “Ask the pro if they’re licensed by the state and if they’re a member of a state or national association,” says Mannes. “Those folks are usually taking the time to be credentialed properly, and they’re learning the latest techniques for treatment.”
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After you’ve removed any mice roaming through your house, work your way down this list to make sure they — and any other rodents, for that matter — don’t return.
Seal narrow gaps with 100% silicone caulk. For holes that are larger than 1/2-inch wide, first stuff them with steel wool or copper mesh, which will prevent mice from chewing through, then seal them with joint compound; a foam insulation pest blocker is another option. “Pay close attention to where pipes enter the house, and check basement foundations,” says Mannes. Attach door sweeps to the bottom of outside-facing doors to keep mice from scurrying underneath.
Shrubbery and branches are basically inviting mice and insects into your home. Cut off their highway to the house by trimming shrubbery back from the exterior of your house. While spring is generally the best time for pruning, if you’re just removing dead or broken branches, that can safely be done any time of year. “It’s also important to keep stacks of firewood at least 20 feet from the house, since mice — not to mention termites and carpenter ants — like to nest in the piles,” says DiClerico.
In colder temperatures, mice are looking for warmth and a constant food supply. Try to keep your kitchen shelves, cabinets and countertops clean, and store unsealed food in airtight food storage containers to limit their access. Same goes for pet food: Try not to leave food out in a cat or dog bowl all day long since it will attract rodents.
Mice will also munch on paper products and cardboard, so it’s best to toss or recycle any excessive food packaging during your weekly kitchen cleanup.
Like insects and other pests, mice are also attracted to trash cans. For a mouse-proof can, go with a trash can that has a tight lid or use rubber cords to keep it shut; metal bins are best. Clean the cans regularly, inside and out, to prevent rodent-attracting smells.
Although Mannes argues that homemade remedies aren’t the best way to get rid of mice, there’s no harm in trying out natural deterrents. Some claim that the smell of peppermint and clove oil repel mice. Soak cotton balls with these essential oils and stick them in areas that frequently attract mice like drawers, cabinets and entryways. “There are some ‘potpourri’-like mixes that are advertised to keep mice out of enclosed spaces (such as farm tractor cabs over winter), but they are ineffective in large or open areas,” Lerman says. “And they are way too aromatic – stinky — to tolerate in homes.”
6. Think about getting a cat.
A study out of the Scripps Research Institute has found that “mice are hard-wired to feel fear if they smell pheromones from cat urine.” Another academic report noted that the one-two combination of a cat and a dog at home is especially effective at scaring off rodents. Of course, this shouldn’t be the only reason to get a four-legged friend, and there are tradeoffs to consider, from the cost of feeding and care to all that pet hair.
Mice are a major nuisance that can get worse in a hurry if left unchecked. As with most pest infestations, the cause may be the result of other household issues — for example, cracks around windows and doors that also let in water and cold air. Fortunately, the fixes are usually straightforward, and when done in tandem with eliminating food sources, they’re almost certain to resolve your mouse problem. It might take a couple of weeks to achieve, but a mouse-free home is well within your reach.
Source: https://gardencourte.com
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