A hero ingredient known for promoting radiance and fading dark spots, vitamin C is where it’s at. Unfortunately, for those of us with sensitive skin, vitamin C as an ingredient can irritate the skin and cause redness. Several of us on Team Byrdie struggle with post-acne marks and noticeably reactive complexions, so we know the struggle of finding a serum that’s both effective and compatible with our skin. When beloved K-beauty brand Glow Recipe came out with a vitamin C serum—the Guava Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum—that works for all skin types, we could not have been more thrilled.
We tested it out for about two weeks—taking note of skin reactivity as well as the serum’s consistency, smell, and overall efficacy—and enlisted the help of board-certified dermatologist Dr. Marisa Garshick plus Glow Recipe co-founders Sarah Lee and Christine Chang. Read on to find out our thoughts on this superfruit-packed serum.
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About the Ingredients: Efficacious and gentle
This serum’s claim to fame is its use of superfruits and other ingredients known to pack a punch. According to Garshick, the brightening serum leans on different forms of vitamin C and guava extract and seed oil, which together deliver powerful antioxidant benefits and brightens the skin, while tranexamic acid, improves discoloration and reduces dark spots. “This blend works exceptionally well to improve hyperpigmentation, while also reducing dullness and improving overall appearance of the skin,” she adds. Lee and Chang share more on the specifics of these ingredients and how they made a vitamin C serum play well with sensitive skin:
Vitamin C: Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that has been known to help reduce signs of aging and dark spots while also brightening and evenly toning the skin. “We encapsulated the vitamin C ingredient in order to deliver optimal potency because when you encapsulate an ingredient, it gently releases over time,” says Lee. “That helps to minimize any irritation while helping to provide lasting results.”
Guava Seed Oil and Fruit Extract: These ingredients are naturally rich in vitamin C and help soften skin. They also give this formula a fresh scent.
Tranexamic Acid: “Tranexamic acid is a new ingredient that we’ve introduced in the portfolio and it is truly hyperpigmentation treatment,” according to Chang. “It specifically targets the concerns of hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and uneven tone because it works to directly block the infusion of melanin that comes with extra sun exposure or different sort of UV exposure.”1
Ferulic Acid and Vitamin E: Both of these ingredients work hand-in-hand with vitamin C to boost skin’s radiance.
About the Formula: Ideal for all skin types
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“Glow Recipe’s Guava Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum can be used by all skin types,” Garshick explains. “The formula is especially good for those dealing with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation; one consumer study showed that after 4 weeks of use, 89% of individuals noticed a reduction in post-acne marks.”
But how? Well, Garshick explains, on a scientific level, vitamin C that works to protect the skin against free radical damage and can help to brighten the skin, improve hyperpigmentation and boost collagen production. “Vitamin C can help to reduce discoloration, working to block melanin production—preventing and reducing hyperpigmentation,” she says. “By brightening the skin and reducing discoloration, vitamin C can help reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation that may be associated with acne marks and blemishes. It can be used by individuals of all skin tones, including those with darker skin.”
As for the actual feel, this formula is lightweight and quick-absorbing, which gives skin a subtle glow without looking shiny.
How to Apply: Easy to incorporate into a routine
In order to figure out how to add the serum to your routine, you must first understand the basics of vitamin C serums. In general, it’s best for vitamin C to be used within 3-6 months of opening, explains Garshick. Since it can be unstable, vitamin C serums can lead to sensitivity and irritation in the skin, so Garshick says it’s best to avoid using it at the same time as a retinoid or exfoliating acid (which can be more irritating) unless it’s been designed to work together—like in the case of this serum.
Garshick recommends applying this serum in the morning after cleansing but before moisturizer to provide additional protection. “It works especially well to protect the skin when paired with sunscreen,” she adds.
You can also opt to layer it with other serums (a skincare method that dates back years and years in Korean skincare), which Chang says was one of the inspirations for making this particular formulation. “You can tackle multiple concerns at once by layering (or cocktailing) different serums within the same skincare routine,” shares Chang. “If you’re wearing multiple serums, the rule of thumb is always to go from light to heavy in terms of the consistency,” says Chang.
The Results: More even-toned skin
Melony Forcier / Byrdie
When we started using the serum, our skin was in the process of healing from a particularly harsh breakout in the lower-left corner of my face (our usual breakout spot). While there weren’t any more pimples to deal with, we still had small red marks all over. It took about a week of use, but we began to notice red spots started to shrink and a few of the smaller ones disappeared completely.
The Value: Reasonably priced
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This serum is a budget-friendly option, especially when compared to other similar vitamin C serums. For $45, you get 1 fl. oz. of product packed with high-quality, skin-nourishing ingredients. Plus, a little of the product goes a long way: one to two squirts are more than enough to cover your entire face. One bottle will be sure to last you at least a couple of months.
All things considered, we believe that the price tag makes sense for this serum, especially when stacked up against its competitors, which tend to cost double that. Garshick agrees, explaining that from a formulation perspective, the unique combination helps with dark spots, making it a great vitamin C serum for someone dealing with discoloration.
Glow Recipe Guava Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum Vs. Glow Recipe Pineapple-C Bright Serum
If you’re familiar with Glow Recipe, you may know that they already carry a vitamin C serum called the Pineapple-C Bright Serum and may be wondering what differs between the two. “In a nutshell, both the serums—the guava, and the pineapple serum—bring the power of vitamin C alongside the superfruits, which are hero and clinically-effective ingredients for slightly different needs,” explains Lee. “The guava serum truly targets those who have hyperpigmentation and really want to brighten the dark spots. It is because it has a blend of dual encapsulated vitamin C and also the antioxidant powerhouse guava extract.”
So, is one better than the other? It comes down to the skin concerns you are looking to target in your skin. As mentioned, the Guava Vitamin-C Dark Spot Serum is best for those who are looking for help with hyperpigmentation. The Pineapple-C Bright Serum is great for those looking for an entryway into incorporating vitamin C into their skincare routine. Also, the textures between the two differ. The guava serum has a bouncier feel, while the pineapple serum is a clear serum that feels sticky upon application, but dries down smooth.
Similar Products: You have options
Sunday Riley C.E.O Vitamin C Brightening Serum: This vitamin C serum ($85) is a splurge compared to Glow Recipe’s, but it’s made with 15 percent vitamin C and targets dark spots and signs of aging.
La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Face Serum with Salicylic Acid: For a vitamin C serum that does more than brighten and target dark spots, La Roche Posay’s Pure Vitamin C Face Serum ($47) is a great option. It’s formulated with salicylic acid, which helps promote clear skin, and hyaluronic acid, which helps with hydration.
SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic: Few vitamin C serums are as iconic as this one ($182), which boasts 15 percent vitamin C plus vitamin E and ferulic acid to visibly smooth and brighten skin. It comes at a higher price tag, yes, and may or may not smell like hot dog water, but we swear it’s worth it.
The Final Verdict
Glow Recipe’s Guava Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum truly helps with reducing dark spots and adding radiance to the skin, while maintaining a lightweight texture that is perfect for everyday use. It’s also packed with tons of skin-improving ingredients. Suffice it to say: this is one of our favorite serums.
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