Looking for a cute, interactive pet to add to your home. What about bunnies? These creatures make great indoor pets. But before getting the rabbits, they will need a hutch to live in. To solve this problem, I’ve made detailed plans on how to build a DIY rabbit hutch that could be used indoor and outdoor.
The hutch has a litter pan under the floor that could be removed for cleaning. Since the hutch is only 3 feet wide, it could be easily moved around.
You are watching: How to Build a DIY Rabbit Hutch for Indoor and Outdoor
Fun facts about bunnies
- These cute fluffy creatures are remarkably hygienic. Generally, they don’t even need to be bathed, since they clean themselves throughout the day by licking their paws and fur.
- Bunnies are social creatures and they need at least one companion.
- Their big ears have another reason besides listening. They regulate the temperature of their body.
- Their teeth never stop growing, yet they never get too long. Bunnies gradually worn-down their teeth by chewing vegetables, grass, and other foods.
- On average they live for about 8 years.
- Without turning their heads, they can see nearly 360 degrees around them.
- According to Guinness World Records, a rabbit’s highest jump reached 3.26 feet off the ground! And the longest leap, an impressive 10 feet long!
If you’re into animals, you also might be interested in a DIY incubator for Eggs for chickens or quails.
Download Printable Plans in PDF
Note: Lumber dimensions are listed as nominal size. See lumber sizes for actual dimensions vs nominal.
Disclosure: Some of the links on this page as well as links in “tools for this project” and “material list” sections are affiliate links.
Dimensions
Step 1 – Cut Four Legs for the Rabbit Hutch
First, start by cutting the four support legs of the rabbit hutch. Take a 2×3 board and cut two front legs to 36″ in length with a 10-degree miter cut on one end. Then cut two back legs to 33 1/4″ in length with the same 10-degree miter cut on one end.
Next, take your random orbital sander and sand the legs to eliminate any rough edges.
Step 2 – Cut Boards for the Floor Frame
To build the floor frame, you need to use 1×2 boards. If you’re planning to use the cheapest wood, which is pine, you might have a hard time finding straight 1×2 boards at your local hardware store. These boards are much thinner than 2x4s so they have a tendency to warp and twist much easier than larger 2×4 or 4×4 boards. You could either go through the pile of wood and pick out the best pieces or just purchase one 1×10 board and rid them into 1 1/2″ wide boards with a table saw. Either way will work as long as you have straight boards.
Now that you have your straight 1×2 boards, cut two pieces to 33″ in length and three pieces to 16 1/2″ in length. Then take your Kreg Jig and set it to 3/4″ wood thickness and drill two pocket holes on each end of 16 1/2″ long pieces.
Step 3 – Assemble the Floor Frame
Arrange the pieces on your workbench as shown in the picture. Apply wood glue to every connection and attach the boards together with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Make sure to clamp the boards tight before driving in the screws. This will prevent the boards from shifting and misaligning.
The middle piece of the floor frame is for supporting the middle divider that separates the hutch into two sections. You could either follow the dimensions provided in the picture or adjust it to your preference.
Step 4 – Attach Wire Mesh Screen to Floor Frame
Next, take a 1″x 1/2″ wire mesh screen and place it over the floor frame. With a sharpie, mark where you need to cut the mesh. Then using cutting pliers, cut it out along the marks that you’ve made. Place the wire mesh screen over the top of the 33″x18″ floor frame and staple it with 9/16 staples.
Step 5 – Attach the Legs to the Floor Frame
Take the four legs and place them on the workbench side by side having the bottom flush to each other. Measure 16″ from the bottom of the leg and draw a line across all four boards using a construction square to keep the line straight. This line will be used for aligning the floor frame.
Now align the top of the floor frame to the guideline and attach it to the post with the screws. (You could use wood screws or pocket hole screws. I used 1 1/4″ pocket holes to attach the floor to the legs.) Since the 16 1/2″ boards of the floor have pocket holes on each end, you will need to drive in the screw between the pocket holes when attaching to the legs.
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The longer legs will be placed at the front of the hutch and the two shorter legs will go in the back. The legs need to be rotated so that the 10-degree angle on top is sloping down to the back of the rabbit hutch. This will make the roof slope down to drain the rainwater.
Step 6 – Build the Front Frame of the Rabbit Hutch
The front frame has one horizontal board and one vertical. Take 1×2 board and cut one horizontal board to 33″ in length and one vertical board to 18 1/2″ in length. Then drill two pocket holes on each end of the board. Remember to sand the boards with your random orbital sander before attaching them to the rabbit hutch.
Now take the vertical 18 1/2″ board and attach it to the horizontal 33″ board with wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket hole screw. The vertical board should align with the middle floor frame board to support the divider in the middle of the hutch.
Next, remove a small section of wire mesh screen where the vertical board meets the floor frame. You don’t want this board to sit on top of the wire mesh screen; you want the wood to connect to wood. Attach this front frame to the front legs and the floor frame with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Step 7 – Install an Upper Side Board for Wire Mesh Screen Support
The left side of the rabbit hutch will be covered with a wire mesh screen. To keep this screen secure, you need to add a support board on the top, between the front and back legs.
Take 1×2 board and cut it to 13 1/2″ in length with a 10-degree miter cut on both ends. Then drill two pocket holes on both ends of the board and attach this piece between the front and the back leg with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Since both ends are cut at 10-degrees, when installing this support board, it will follow the slope of the roof at 10-degrees.
Step 8 – Staple Wire Mesh Screen to the Left Side of Hutch
Similar to step 4, take your cutting pliers and cut a 1″x1/2″ wire mesh screen to fit over the left side. The top of the screen needs to be cut so that it slopes down with the slope of the roof. The bottom of the screen needs to be 1″ lower than the floor screen. This will allow you to staple the side screen to the floor frame, but you will need to trim small sections around the legs. See picture with measurements.
Since there will be a 3/4″ thick door in the front, the screen needs to be set back 3/4 of an inch from the face of the hutch. This will prevent the door from touching the screen. Use 9/16 staples to attach a wire mesh screen to the rabbit hutch.
Step 9 – Cover the Side Mesh Screen with Trim
Once the side screen is attached, take a 1×2 board and cut one trim piece to 13″ in length. Then place the trim over the screen, between the front and back leg, to hide the staples and sharp edges of the screen. Use 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to secure the trim. Now you will have the screen jammed between the trim and the floor frame. See picture.
Step 10 – Cut and Attach the Back Siding Board
Next, take a siding panel that has horizontal slots and using a skill saw cut one backboard piece to 36″ x 18 3/8″. Then attach it to the backside of the rabbit hutch using wood screws.
Step 11 – Cut Right Siding Board and a Middle Divider
The right siding piece and the middle divider are identical in measurements but are mirrored of each other. When cutting these pieces you want to make sure the slot of the backboard will match the slots of the side and middle divider. It makes the project look much better when slots are aligned. See the picture for the measurement.
The middle divider will have an opening for the rabbits to go back and forth between the two sections of the hutch. Measure 3″ from the front of the divider. Then draw a 5” x 5” square and a half-circle (5” diameter) on top of the square using a compass. Cut out the opening with a jig saw.
On the backside of the middle divider, drill pocket holes using Kreg Jig that is set to 1/2″ wood thickness.
Step 12 – Insert and Secure the Middle Divider and the Right Side Panel
First, insert the right side piece inside the hutch and attach it to the legs from the inside. Then insert the middle divider. This divider should line up with the middle board on the floor and with the vertical front board. Once the divider is aligned correctly, attach it with 1” pocket hole screws. If you don’t have 1” screws, you could also use 1 ¼” pocket hole screws. You’ll have to be careful not to drive in the screws too far in, otherwise, they will poke through the wood when using 1 ¼” screws.
Step 13 – Build the Front Doors
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Now it’s time to build the doors. The larger door on the left will have a wire mesh screen and the smaller door on the right will be covered with siding.
Take 1×2 board and cut four pieces to 18 1/4” in length, two pieces to 15 1/4”, and two pieces to 9 3/4” in length. Then drill two pocket holes on each end of 15 1/4” and 9 3/4” pieces. Both doors will be the same height, but different width.
Assemble both door frames with wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket holes screws. Make sure to clamp the boards before driving in the screws to prevent the pieces from shifting.
Once the frames are assembled, take a 1”x 1/2” wire mesh screen and cut it to 18″x18″. Then on the backside of the larger door frame staples the mesh with 9/16 staples.
For the smaller door, take the siding board and cut one piece to 9 3/4″x15 1/4″. You might need to use a table saw for cutting this piece to make it as straight as possible for a perfect fit inside the frame. Also, try to have the slats of the siding match the slats of the middle divider and the backboard. The project looks much better when all the slat grooves line up.
Next drill pocket holes on the back of the siding board using Kreg Jig that is set to ½” wood thickness. Then insert the siding board inside the frame of the door and secure it with 1” pocket hole screws.
Step 14 – Attach Doors to the Rabbit Hutch
Now that the doors are complete, decide which way you want the doors to open. You could install the hinges on the side of the doors or at the bottom. Or you could have one door open to the side and one to the bottom. (I decided to install hinges at the bottom; this will work as a ramp for bunnies to get in and out if needed.)
First, attach the hinges to both of the doors, and then attach the doors to the rabbit hutch. Make sure the gaps between the door and the front frame are the same all the way around.
Once the doors are attached, install barrel bolt latch locks at the top of the doors. These could also be installed on the left or right side of the door.
Step 15 – Build and Install the Roof
To build the roof take a 1×2 board and cut one front piece to 37 3/4” in length and two side pieces to 19 3/4” in length. Then drill pocket holes on one end of the 19 3/4” boards. Attach the side pieces to the front board with 1 ¼” pocket hole screws. Next, cut one 37 3/4”x19 3/4” plywood board. (I used the siding plywood for the roof since I didn’t want to buy a different type of plywood) Apply wood glue over the roof frame and attach the plywood on top with 1 ¼” brad nails. If you’re planning to keep the rabbit hutch outside in the rain, you will need to add shingles on top of the roof to protect the plywood from getting wet.
Now place the roof over the hutch and secure it with screws to the legs from the side.
Step 16 – Make a Frame for the Pan
To prevent the waste from dropping on the floor and making a mess, you’ll need to make a pan under the floor mesh.
Take 1×2 board and cut two pieces to 32 ½” in length and two pieces to 16 1/2”. Attach the frame together with wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket hole screws. Then cut one plywood piece to 31″x16 1/2″. Drill pocket holes and attach the plywood inside the frame similar to how the doors were built.
Step 17 – Make a Pan from Sheet Metal
Next, take a flat sheet of metal and cut one piece to 32 7/8″ x 18 3/8″. From this flat sheet, you need to fold the ends to make a pan. Measure and draw a line that’s 1” from all four edges. Then add the small flanges on four corners. See picture for measurements. Now using your snips, cut out the corners. Fold the edges along the 1” line to make a pen. Drill 1/8” hole on the corners through the flange and then attach the pop rivet to hold the sides in place. Once done with the pan, insert it into the wooden frame. Apply waterproof silicone on four corners of the pan.
Step 18 – Add Angles to Support the Pan
To hold the pan under the floor, install 1 ½” x 2” angles to the legs. See picture. Then slide in the pan under the floor. You’re done with a DIY rabbit hutch for indoor and outdoor.
Source: https://gardencourte.com
Categories: Outdoor
