3. Assemble the sub-frame
Top tip: Work around existing features
Don’t cut down a tree – build your deck around it by including a bit more sub-structure to frame the trunk. Block off the area around the tree by positioning joist off-cuts between the inner joists, secured either end with two coach screws. Then cut and fix the deck boards to fit around the tree. Remember to leave enough space for the tree trunk to thicken and for it to sway in the wind. And consider or research the species as some trees can be very fast growing.
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Step 1
Before you commit yourself to the build, it’s a good idea to do a dry run of the decking first as you don’t want to finish the last row with a thin slither of deck board.
Lay out the joist frame and position the deck boards on top, creating the necessary deck board expansion gaps.
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Timber deck boards require a 5 to 8mm expansion gap along the length of the deck boards and a 3mm gap along the ends of the deck boards.
Solid composite deck boards require a 6mm expansion gap along the length of the deck boards and a 3mm gap along the ends of the deck boards.
A gauge screw makes an ideal spacer or use off-cuts of wood. And check that all gaps created are the same for a uniformed finish.
If the deck boards on the end row overhang the joist frame, consider increasing or reducing the expansion gaps of timber deck boards by the recommended amount. This isn’t possible for solid composite deck boards as they have one standard size of expansion gap. Alternatively, shorten or increase the outer frame so that your final decking row will finish flush to the edge of the joist frame.
Work all this out before you cut and assemble the deck frame or add concrete pads.
Step 2
Measure your deck frame and cut to size.
Step 3
Make two pencil marks on each end of the deck frame’s two outer joists – these are at right angles to the inner joists. These marks are where the coach screws will go. Make the marks to align with the centre of the adjoining outer joist. This will total eight marks – two in each corner of the outer joist frame.
Use a flat wood bit to drill recesses into each of the eight marks. These should be the depth of the screw’s head and wide enough for a ratchet or socket attachment to tighten them. Also known as countersunk holes, these recesses ensure the screw heads will be flush with the joist surface for a neat finish.
Step 4
Replace your drill bit for one that’s thinner than your coach screw’s shank. Line up the adjoining outer joists and drill a pilot hole through the centre of the recess, from the outer joist into the adjoining outer joist. A pilot hole provides a guide hole to help direct the screws and prevents the screw from splitting the wood.
Source: https://gardencourte.com
Categories: Outdoor