Learn how to easily add height to your kitchen cabinets and close in that empty space. An easy project that will make your kitchen feel about 10 feet taller!
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Let’s talk about that empty space seen in kitchens. You know…that extra 10-12 inch gap between the top of the cabinets to the ceiling. When it comes to that space, all I have is one little question. Why? Why does this space even exist? Why not just build the cabinets all the way to the ceiling?
You are watching: How To Easily Add Height To Your Kitchen Cabinets
So, maybe that was three questions. But I think it’s getting pretty obvious to you that I don’t like that empty space. So I came up with a solution.
If your kitchen has this same empty space, this tutorial is for you! You will learn how to easily add height to your kitchen cabinets while filling in that gap and loving the end result!
Selecting the Right Materials
So let me start by telling you what materials and tools you’ll need to get the same look as I achieved in my kitchen. (disclosure: some affiliate links used )
You will need these building materials:
- 2 x 2 boards
- 1/2 inch MDF
- molding ( Style A, Style B)
I also used these tools:
- stud finder
- painting tape
- caulking
- level
- Kreg Jig
- drill
- screws
- nail brad gun (with air compressor and nails)
- protective eye wear
- saw (or have home improvement cut for you)
The Process
I started by finding all my studs in the ceiling right above my cabinets. I used my stud finder and marked each one with a pencil scribble.
Then I cut my 2 x 2 boards into 12 inch pieces (the height of my gap). Once cut, I used my Kreg Jig to make one screw hole in each end. Then with my drill, I screwed one end into the ceiling (into a stud) and the other end into the top of the cabinet.
Read more : Kitchen Cabinet Installation Cost
This is an important step….remember to take note of the thickness of your front board (that will cover the gap). You want that front board (my MDF) flush with the top of your cabinet all the way to the ceiling. If you are too far back or forward you will not align. I used my level to double check all my support boards when installing into place.
Be sure to mark on the front of the kitchen cabinet where the 2′ x 2′ is located with a piece of painters tape. (I’ll explain why in a minute.)
Here’s what it looked like once I had all the boards installed…
Now it was time to install the MDF on top of the cabinets. I do not own a table saw so I had all my MDF cut at a home improvement store (Lowes).
The cheapest way I found to get all my boards was to buy a 4′ x 8′ sheet. I measured out all the cuts I would need, starting with the longest first.
Here’s a big tip to you! This is the only thing I regret about how I had my MDF cut…I should have had the long boards cut to match the break in my already installed cabinets.
Notice where the arrows are pointing in this picture below.
If I had measured differently, the seams would line up on bottom and top. I feel this would have given the makeover a more professional look.
Of course, I used caulk to smooth and hide any seams but when the light hits it just right you can see it. Maybe it’s just the perfectionist in me (my husband would say so) but I wanted to offer that tidbit of advice to you. 🙂
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So with the cuts made it was time to install the MDF and kiss those gaps goodbye. Remember those little painter tape markers I mentioned earlier? This is where they come into play.
When I placed my MDF on top of the cabinet to block the gap, I also covered up my 2 x 2 supports. So if I didn’t have those markers, I wouldn’t know where to aim my nail brad gun to attach the boards. That’s all I did to install.
I love my nail brad gun and anytime I get to use it, I always have fun!
Once the MDF was up I added all my molding. For my kitchen I only used two different styles of molding but it looks like I actually have three. My crown molding (labeled A) hides where the MDF meets the ceiling and give the cabinets a built-in look.
The smaller, thinner molding (labeled B ) served two purposes. One, to hide the seam where the top of the cabinets meet the MDF. And two, to add a more custom/finished look to the bottom of the cabinets. The top B molding I installed up right but for the bottom I installed upside down.
By flipping the bottom molding, I thought I would get a cohesive look but add a different flare at the same time. 🙂
After everything was installed I went over every single little seam, crevice, and gap and filled it with caulk.
Another little tip: caulk is your friend in this kind of project. It can hide all kinds of little imperfections when cutting molding. Plus it gives strength to those thinner strips of molding (like on the bottom of my cabinets).
I allowed the caulking to dry over night, then I primed and painted and the rest is history!
I will admit for me, the hardest part of this project was my 45 degree angles in the corners. If you don’t have those…you will have this done in a day…..easily! I promise you, if you attempt this tutorial you will discover just how easy it is to add height to your kitchen cabinets.
Have you always wanted to add height to your kitchen cabinets? What’s stopping you?
If you’d like to see the tutorial on how to easily paint your kitchen cabinets, CLICK HERE.
Wanting to learn how to install subway tile? I have a tutorial full of tips and tricks found here!
I also have a great post on the ways I organize my new kitchen found HERE:
Source: https://gardencourte.com
Categories: Kitchens